It was a discovery born out of very little research or planning. Arriving by fast ferry, speeding across the Ionian from Malta and landing in a fairly forlorn part of the island, I disembarked long after dark. A taxi driver met me in the parking lot. The whole adventure came out of an assumption and an idea: I had a few extra days at the end of a weeks-long trip to Europe, wanted to see more of Sicily, so made last-minute plans, basically picking a spot at random on a map and hoping for the best (aka, assuming everything would work out)….