Wine purists will tell you that the wine you choose for a dinner should match the food that’s on the table. Others say, “Poppycock! Drink anything you like with any food.” Riesling with steak? Hey, if you like it, go for it. It certainly would challenge the wine, though. I can’t imagine riesling with steak, but I did know a man some years ago who always had a dry Gewürztraminer from the Alsace region of France with veal. He had tasted that combination as a young man in Europe, and to him, it was a match of perfection. More about this later. Then again, how you serve the wine could make a huge difference in its enjoyment. Assume the owner of Chateau Margaux were to pour you his perfectly stored 1945 Margaux into crystal stemware in the dining room of the chateau. Under those conditions, the wine would certainly taste …