Winter is the season for red chile enchilada sauce. You can almost smell the piñon and juniper smoke drifting from the leaky wood stove, as you explore the profound depths of a good red chile sauce made from scratch. The sauce is good on potatoes, squash, and other wintry foods, keeping you warm inside and out, from your spicy mouth to your sweating skin, and for better or worse, everything in between. You can find the ingredients nearly everywhere, from the bulk section of Whole Foods to the “ethnic foods” aisle of a small-town supermarket, with little more than salsa, soy sauce, and ramen. We aren’t going to call it “chili,” by the way. The Mexican word for the plant from Mexico is “chile.” Enchilada, meanwhile, is the past participle of enchilar, a Spanish verb that literally means “to put chile on something.” In the popular dish enchiladas, named after …