The conventional wisdom that has pervaded the wine-loving community for the past several decades could very well be updated by newer rules that make more sense. But for reasons that are unclear to me, the new rules have never been widely disseminated. One of those old “rules,” in which we talk about serving white wines with fish and red wines with meat, has long since been debunked as ridiculous. There are so many exceptions to that generalization that it simply doesn’t make any particular sense. Sea bass is a fish, but “sea bass Veracruz,” made with olives and tomatoes, likely would be best with a medium-weight merlot or a pinot noir. Other new rules are not quite as obviously incorrect. For instance, the old “rule” about aging all wine bottles on their side to keep their corks moist (so they don’t dry out) is still a sound idea, but Champagne …