Those involved in a close liaison with wine for decades make lots of demands on the wines we’re happiest to consume. Just because a wine is tasty is no reason to get excited about it, I believe, if it fails one crucial test: It doesn’t smell sort of like the grape listed on the front label. When you buy a BMW, you expect it to do what a BMW is supposed to do. Likewise for any product that relies on performance—writing instruments, knives, software. … If I buy a riesling and it smells more like aftershave or pomegranates, it’s not a good example of riesling, no matter how “tasty” it may be. Holding wines to this standard isn’t something most wine buyers do. If you’re content to drink a $3.99 wine that has no varietal authenticity, you’re probably happy it’s wet. But when paying $15 or more, we should demand …