When I ask a chef for a recipe to print in this column, I know it’s no small request. It’s the core blueprint of their business. A storehouse of value and trade secret all in one. Amazingly, most agree. But when I showed up at Tia’s Big Sky Artisanal Mexican Restaurant to pick up my take-out, I had already come to the conclusion that Tia would not be cooperating. The counter girl looked up at me from my order: one tamale, one hibiscus agua fresca, and two large sides of coleslaw. “Are you the guy who called earlier today?” she asked. “Yup.” “Kim says no.” “I had a feeling,” I said. “That’s why I ordered all this coleslaw.” Back when I was a restaurant critic for an Albuquerque newspaper, I used to dream about a restaurant like Tia’s that would serve Mexican food made with high-quality local ingredients. You can …
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