The humble and satisfying sandwich can be found in nearly every culture. From classic American PB&Js to hoagies and burgers, wraps and clubs, pockets and panini, and an international smattering of open-face toasts and tartines, there is a version of a sandwich for every cuisine and appetite. In honor of the sandwich and its universal appeal, I submit to you a delectable recipe for banh mi, which is guaranteed to whisk you away from the daily humdrum of sheltering, Zoom meetings, discordant news, and the winter blues—at least for lunch. Banh mi is the Vietnamese rendition of a sandwich with French sensibilities. It’s a creation influenced by the lengthy colonization of Vietnam by France. French baguette, pâté, and mayonnaise meet the fragrance and spice of Southeast Asia, layered with lacquered meats, chiles, pickles, and cilantro in a double-fisted whopper of a sandwich. The appeal of banh mi lies in a …