“Anybody gone into Whole Foods lately and see what they charge for arugula?” asked then-Sen. Barack Obama during an Iowa campaign rally in 2007. There was no Whole Foods in Iowa at the time, and his gaffe, and the inevitable backlash, all became known as “Arugula-gate.” Thus, the fates of arugula and Obama became inextricably…
An Ode to Lentils
I don’t know why I overlook the humble lentil. These tiny legumes that resemble pancaked pebbles are often bypassed in my pantry, as I reach for grains and beans. When I finally do cook lentils, I remember how good they taste, how satisfying they are to eat, and how easy they are to prepare. Eminently…
Buttermilk English Muffins
My friend Suzanne Pollack, the dean of the Charleston Academy of Domestic Pursuits, has taught me how to make these incredibly easy and delicious, light and fluffy English muffins. They do take time to make, but most of it is hands-off, just to let the dough rise and rise again. No complicated techniques here. She…
Creamy Scrambled Eggs
Creamy, slow-cooked scrambled eggs are my go-to dish when I feel like pampering myself. I adore eggs for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Yes, you can absolutely make scrambled eggs in a frying pan over high heat and have them ready in a flash. These are not those. I whisk the eggs with heavy cream and…
Dried Fruit Compote
I remember my grandmother having this for breakfast (something to do with the prunes?). It is a really retro, old-fashioned breakfast staple that is super easy to make and a great lower-sugar alternative to fruit parfait. Simply simmer a mixture of dried fruits in orange water until plump, and then serve warm or cold. You…
A Taste of Chiang Mai: Khao Soi, Coconut-Curry Noodle Soup
Growing up in a small town in the Midwest, my only understanding of curry was the yellow powder in a standard issue wedding-gift spice rack. That powder originated in India, a combination of seasonings that were meant to travel well and mimic fresh curries. Many British returning to the British Isles from the then-colonized subcontinent…
The Dark Arts of Winter Mushroom Gardens
As the dark days of the year chase us indoors, we look for ways to stay connected to the earth. Seed catalogs, house plants, frozen broccoli from last year’s garden—all reminders that life goes on, and will come back around. Let’s add mushrooms to the list of wintertime ways to plug into the cycle of…
Pizza di Scarole (Escarole Pie)
Despite this recipe’s name, don’t expect a traditional pizza with tomato sauce and mozzarella. This classic regional dish, belonging to the Neapolitan tradition, is more like a stuffed focaccia or a savory pie, with a fluffy crust made with a potato bread dough. Escarole is the protagonist of the filling, its bitterness tamed by supporting…
Grilled Radicchio Tardivo
Radicchio tardivo, with its slender, creamy white stalks and curly, flaming purple leaves, is the most spectacular specimen of the many Italian varieties, hailing from the Veneto region of northern Italy. Slightly bitter, it has a crisp, clean, wintery flavor, with a texture that is crunchy and juicy when raw and satisfyingly meaty when cooked….
Orecchiette con le Cime di Rapa (Orecchiette With Broccoli Rabe)
Cime di rapa, turnip greens—also called rapini or broccoli rabe—are the most representative vegetables of the Apulian winter, piled on the market stalls and dinner tables of this Southern Italian region. They are the protagonists of a regional dish, orecchiette con le cime di rapa. The flowers and the most tender leaves are boiled along…
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