Let me start by saying that I’m not a beet-lover. At all. I don’t know what came over me when I first started thinking about this salad, but it probably had something to do with it being midwinter in New York, when the most color you get to enjoy is blue sky, if you’re lucky, and trash peeking out of a graying snowbank, if you’re not. Anyway, color: I’ve been hungry for it, and now that berries and herbs are finally coming into season, I can satisfy those cravings. This bougainvillea-pink salad is the perfect way to do so. You’ll start, yes, with beets, roasted until tender using a method inspired by “Salt Fat Acid Heat,” wherein you bake them with a good splash of water so they steam and roast simultaneously, giving you the concentrated sweetness of roasted beets with the tender meatiness of boiled beets. Peel and slice …