Holiday festivities are muted and gatherings reduced this year, inspiring feelings that toggle between a yearning for glitter and a craving for comfort. How to celebrate and what to eat strive for a balance between these mixed desires. In my mind, the following recipe achieves just that. It’s simple yet elegant, special but not pretentious, and relies on a short list of honest ingredients that drive wonderfully fresh flavor. I grew up in New England, where lobster is ubiquitous. It’s the quintessential summer food, associated with the seashore and bare feet, picnic tables and messy eating, accessorized by dribbling butter, nutcrackers, and paper bibs. Now, many years and moves later, I rarely eat lobster. When I do, it’s usually on special occasions. The once-standard summer fare has morphed into a celebratory treat, and there’s no time better for such an indulgence than the holidays, when shellfish and crustaceans go ever …