Wine geeks use the French term “terroir,” a hard-to-translate term that relates to how grape varieties are impacted by the regions in which they’re grown. In theory, it means that chardonnays display unique characteristics that emanate directly from the grape variety as well as from their growing regions. But in practice, what a winemaker does at the winery can often cover up regional singularity. We also know that vineyard decisions can also alter, if not eliminate, regional features. The best examples of regionality are seen in white wines that aren’t aged in oak barrels, which could impart elements that confuse what the grapes deliver. Riesling, chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, and several other whites are examples of how the “whereness” of a wine may be discovered. That said, herbs mark the aroma of a well-made sauvignon blanc, which is more evident in cooler climates than warmer climates, and in recent years, …