My friend operated a retail wine shop. And he was incredulous. It was 1983, and I had just written a wine column praising dry pink wines as a revelation, calling them a great compromise when two diners are having radically different foods, and a great wine to cool off with. When a red wine doesn’t work with one dish and a white doesn’t complement the other, dry rosé is the perfect choice, I said. My column prompted his call. “Hey, I can’t sell dry rosé, no matter how many columns you write on it,” he complained. Curiously, last week, 39 years later and 600 miles away from that encounter, we shared a bottle of dry rosé and cherished how much has changed for the better over the years. Today, dry rosé is on everyone’s lips, literally and figuratively. When it’s time to cool off with an adult beverage, some people …