Excluding breakfast, I consider a meal without a glass of wine to be a missed opportunity. I think of wine as an enhancement of food and a simple way to improve almost all victuals. Not every wine has to be great. Sometimes, a simple glass of simple wine is just fine. And while making the proper food and wine pairing is fun, it’s by no means necessary. In fact, I don’t believe in rigid rules when it comes to wine and food pairing. For me, there is only one rigid rule I live by: Wine with food beats the alternative, which is food without any wine. The old food/wine rules were designed with simplicity in mind. Sure, “white wine with fish, red wine with meat” can work, but not always. Like baked halibut with lemon butter. But what about halibut in a dark red-wine reduction sauce seasoned with tarragon and …