In early June, I will be a speaker at an industry technical conference in Geneva, New York, on a grape variety that, chances are, you have never heard of before, though it’s one that makes extremely nice red wines. Bryan Ulbrich, winemaker at his excellent winery Left Foot Charley, and I will explore the grape called either Lemberger or Blaufrankisch (they’re synonyms). Bryan was chosen because he makes a wonderful Blaufrankisch at his winery in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula; I was chosen (I suspect) because of my love for obscure wine grapes. I can’t say exactly when I first knew I was beguiled by the abstruse, but I recall one episode that may have been it. It was 1990. At a small cafe in Colli Orientali in northern Italy, I ordered a glass of a red wine that was reasonably priced, and I was pleasantly surprised. It was a bit like …