I like many red wines that use merlot as their sole or dominant grape, especially when the merlot is grown in a cooler climate and has some of its natural varietal aroma characteristics. That is a little less likely these days with so many acres of the grape being planted in warmer regions, where its personality can be muted and where its acidity is often insufficient to allow it to work with food. I understand how approachable and easy to quaff merlot can be when it’s made in an early drinking style. For that reason, there’s an awful lot of this kind of wine being produced around the world, including malbec, zinfandel, and even cabernet. And to be sure, merlot (mare-low) is an attractive red wine grape that’s planted in many parts of the world. It emanates from Bordeaux where it is one of the most vital additions to the …