Florence Jaramillo pays $64 per pound for real honey. She’s been known to drive through the night to pick up a truckload of red chile, her restaurant’s most crucial ingredient. She and her staff have pulled all-night sessions in the past to make 300 dozen tamales—by hand. And, at age 90, the grande dame of Southwestern cuisine still gets up at 5 a.m. to go to work at her famous northern New Mexico restaurant, Rancho de Chimayó. Waitstaff and cooks must be found, accounting records must be maintained, supplies must be ordered well ahead of time, and work schedules must be set. A newly troublesome pinched nerve in her hip hasn’t slowed her down, although she doesn’t spend much time in the kitchen now and uses a walker to help her get around. “I can’t sit still,” Jaramillo said. Autumn’s amber light poured through casement windows in thick adobe walls …