From the moment the first tomato appears at my local farmers market, marking the beginning of the season, all I can think about is how to make the most of this glorious summer produce. Tomatoes vary widely in size, shape, color, flavor, and texture; seek out heirloom varieties to experience their full spectrum. You’ll find them in shapes from bright yellow to deep red and purple, with variegated versions in oranges and greens in between, some almost candy-sweet and others with a pronounced tang. All are packed with that essential umami flavor that makes any dish pop. Eaten raw or cooked in myriad ways, each type of tomato has unique characteristics that are better suited for specific uses. Cherry tomatoes are ideally eaten whole and raw in salads, or quickly cooked to serve alongside steak, chicken, or fish. Their thick skin stays intact, so that they burst in your mouth …