Oh, the mystique that some people ascribe to wine in their rush to canonize it out of all proportion to what it really is, or should be: a beverage. Or the denunciation some people heap on inexpensive bottles. I have heard elitist oenophiles use terms to disparage wine they wouldn’t deign to try. I reflect on some of the phrases I’ve heard from those who want to place wine on a pedestal, elevating it to near mythical status or trying as best they can to create an image that has no bearing whatsoever on the product. “Champagne is one of man’s highest art forms,” he said just minutes before he removed the cork and poured for us a horrid example of the stuff. It was so bad most of us looked around for a potted palm into which to dump our glasses. (I was, I admit, worried about planticide.) “Magnificent!” …