Congee is a pan-Asian dish beloved wherever rice is grown. It goes by other names, and comes in many different flavors, but the core principle never changes. Cook the rice into a starchy cloud, flavored with the likes of ginger, chives, and hoisin sauce. Eat it when comfort food is called for. I live in the Northern Rockies, where the spuds grow diverse and delectable, and farmers like Big Nancy bring multi-colored sacks to the winter market. Nothing against rice, but I wanted to make congee with local starches. I bought a bunch of different varieties, including Huckleberry, Mozart, and Rose Finn, along with a few other wintertime ingredients, and brought them back to my laboratory of culinary science. That’s where I invented Spud Bisque. It’s as thick as any roux-based soup, with a grounding, fungal flavor. It’s completely satisfying served as is, with a garnish of chopped greens and …