Italy’s greatest contribution to all of Europe’s wine culture starts with the fact that wine wasn’t much of a tradition there until Roman legions planted vine cuttings they brought with them in the northern parts of the continent 23 centuries ago. What’s odd about this is that, of all the most popular grapes that took root and prospered in France, Germany, Austria, Spain, Portugal, and elsewhere, almost none were among Italy’s most popular! Today, France is best known for its cabernet sauvignon (Bordeaux) as well as chardonnay and pinot noir (Burgundy), Spain for tempranillo and garnacha, and Portugal for touriga nacional. By contrast, Italy’s top red grapes (sangiovese, barbera, and nebbiolo) grow almost nowhere else in Europe. No one disputes the excellence of the finest Bordeaux and red Burgundies. The same goes for Italy’s reds, which now include several other grapes. But the styles of wines they produce are often …