Leaving Chautauqua County, my husband, Vic, and I continued our Empire State Road Trip in upstate New York, this time headed toward Watkins Glen and the Thousand Islands. Our trip was organized by the Harbor Hotels, and when we left one for the other they each gave us a little cooler full of water, fruit, and snacks to fortify us for the three-hour drive to the next one. I left behind a museum devoted to one comedic icon to pursue a more subdued testament to another: From the zany and frenzied Lucille Ball and her museum in Jamestown we set out to visit the more philosophic and observational humor of Mark Twain. Long before “I love Lucy” were the glories of romping around with Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn—literary classic vs. TV classic. En route to Watkins Glen at the bottom of one of the many Finger Lakes in the …