It was a warm spring night just before a long weekend, and as the sun faded, the city came alive. Along the Danube Canal, diners settled down to their first aperitif at patio restaurants lit by lamps, just lit for the evening. Bicyclists zoomed by on the boardwalk, and little clusters of young people sat cross-legged by the water, in no hurry to get anywhere till Monday. As I crossed through the dense web of this area called the Bermuda Triangle, it was clear that these rollicking bars had already been rocking for hours, frosty mugs of this city’s famous beer flowing freely, as the steady roar of conversation was punctuated by raucous bursts of laughter.
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