Squinting into the wind and rain, we marched from a desolate parking lot on the southwest tip of Ireland down a slippery path. I turned a corner and the mean-looking surf was still a long walk away. Noticing my questioning look, my guide, Conner, egged me on. He was hell-bent on showing me “the tracks of tetrapods.”
I was exploring the much-loved Ring of Kerry, assuming I’d be seeing quaint pubs, sheep farms, and plush Emerald Isle beauty. But Conner was determined to complement the traditional sights by introducing me to a different side of this touristy destination (a.k.a. the Iveragh Peninsula). It’s so crowded with tour buses that all the companies have agreed to tour counterclockwise in a convoy to keep traffic from getting jammed up….