My farmer friend calls them Chinese chives. She’s from China, so she would know. She sells them in painfully cheap bunches that I collect like firewood each week and stack in the fridge next to the eggs. Nancy’s Chinese chives are bigger than any chives I’ve known. About 14 inches long, they get wider and whiter toward the roots like young onions. I use them like scallions, and they perform like stallions, filling my food with a sweet, green, pungent flavor that seems to encompass everything good about onions, garlic, leeks, ramps, shallots, and all the other members of genus Allium, which is the Latin word for garlic. The most common chive, Allium schoenoprasum, has the distinction of being the only Allium native to both New and Old World countries in the Eastern and Western hemispheres, and is an important source of nectar for pollinators on many continents. Nancy’s Chinese …