It’s Champagne season—a line you might think indicates that this article is being published two weeks too late. And sure, sparkling wines usually are reserved for toasting at Christmas and New Year’s. Once those holidays have passed, most people believe the season for them is over. For me, it’s just beginning, and it lasts all year. There’s a method to my madness—though I consider it not madness but sanity. That’s because far too many domestic wines don’t have enough acidity for me and the foods I eat. And at the heart of wine-and-food pairings is that the wine must have sufficient acid to work with food. But far too many chardonnays are soft; too many cabernets lack the structure. Sugar has become commonplace in sauvignon blanc. Americans have a sweet tooth and U.S. wineries, notably on the West Coast, make sure many wines are sweet or ultra-soft. Sometimes it’s simply …