Along with cavallucci, calzoncelli are another fixture of our Christmas at home. They originate in Melfi, a southern town in Basilicata, my grandfather’s hometown. A bag of calzoncelli, no matter the size, never lasted longer than a couple days at home. Calzoncelli are small parcels with a paper-thin, brittle shell and a moist chocolate and almond filling, perfumed with a gentle and festive hint of citrus zest. Since they are homemade, each one turns out a little different from the others, and I’ve always loved the biggest ones, chubby and slightly underbaked. Be careful—they are addictive. Calzoncelli are an ideal Christmas gift: You can keep them for weeks in a tin box or in an airtight container, and even if it takes some time and practice to make them, they come in a fun parcel shape that is so perfect for Christmas. Makes enough cookies to last through the holidays …