Standing in an old-growth blueberry forest, Ezra Ranz is demonstrating the “two-finger tickle” method for picking ripe berries from clusters dangling on 7-foot canes. “Pretty simple,” he says. “Hands underneath the berries, gentle fingertips brushing toward your palms, presto. Like tickling a baby.” He grins mischievously. In two shakes of a lamb’s tail, 9 fat berries roll into his palms and down to the professional picker’s bucket, which is hanging from a neck strap. Ranz is one of the new owners of Bow Hill Blueberries, a venerable five-acre organic farm in Washington state’s Skagit River Valley. With his sister Audrey Matheson and their respective spouses, Emma and Andrew, the family bought the farm last fall, when the pandemic turned several of their salaried jobs to dust. Ranz and Matheson were born and raised in a ranching valley in Northeastern California and had long mused about owning a farm. “What the …