Coffee originated in the Kaffa region of Ethiopia, growing on trees as cherries with a precious bean-like seed in the middle. Legend has it that sometime in the middle of the 9th century, a goatherd discovered its get-up-and-go properties when his goats got-up-and-went after eating the cherries. But no one knows for sure, because he didn’t take a selfie, so it didn’t happen. The goats were jumpy because a coffee cherry’s flesh—still sold as cascara—has caffeine in it. When dried, coffee cherries can be made into a hot drink called qishr. But someone determined early on that a more complicated process of pulling out the seeds, washing and drying them, and then roasting and grinding them before steeping them in hot water was the way to go. So the beans won, and set off in all directions to conquer the world. But not everyone chose to brew it the same …