Anyone who has been there will tell you: Prague feels like a fairy tale. It doesn’t matter if it’s your first visit or your 20th, when you walk into Old Town Square just after dark, you will draw a breath. Your head will tip up, admiring the monuments and spires: the soaring gothic towers of Our Lady before Tyn, the solid bricks of Old Town Hall, the astronomical clock dating back to 1410, the oldest one still in operation in the world. Some have called this Czech capital the “largest open-air museum on earth,” and that’s fair. Spared most of the bombs that turned many other European cities into post-World War II reconstructions, Prague’s oldest buildings and bridges actually date back centuries. But it’s more than that. Czechs have always been believers—including the late Vaclav Havel, the country’s poet-turned-president. Artists are rarely well-suited for government work, but Havel made the …