Gliding into the harbor on blue waters as still as glass, I climbed up to the top deck for a good look at the handsome town. Behind the white sailboats, moored along the waterfront, a boardwalk buzzed with energy. Behind it were a series of two-story buildings—shops on the bottom, apartments on top—baking in the sun. Mopeds competed with taxis on the narrow streets. Happy families waved as we approached the seawall. Above it all was a shimmering white clock tower backdropped by dark mountains. Upon tying up the boat to the dock, I disembarked into the bustle. Walking in one direction, I found fresh fruit stands and a fish market featuring the catch of the day brought fresh that morning on the hardworking little boats tied up nearby. The swimmers displayed on a bed of ice were priced in euros and labeled in Greek. Going inland just a single …