Naturally, we started our trip off with a glass of wine at lunch. After all, it was too late for breakfast. “Deux verres de vin rouge—um, uh—pas sec,” I said to our waiter. Finally, I just threw my hands in the air and laughed. I meant well, but it seemed unfair to make him suffer for my lack of versatility with the language. He obliged with two glasses of wine and a hearty “Welcome to Provence!” The first morning we left to explore Pernes-les-Fontaines, a 10-minute walk from the cozy 100-year-old, two-story farmhouse we would call home for two weeks. We were traveling with Untours, which puts you up in unusual accommodations—perhaps a castle, a vineyard, or a delightful old house like ours where we could “live like a local.” They provide a car, inundate you with information, connect you with a local contact to answer questions, and set you …