Almost any wine, red, white, rosé, or even sparkling, will be fine with all the myriad flavors extant on the traditional Thanksgiving table—but there’s one huge proviso: as long as you don’t expect the wine to work with the food. That’s because no single wine will. For decades, I’ve written columns on “what wine goes with turkey,” even though I know no single wine could ever fit that event. The one huge fallacy in such wine columns: Great Thanksgiving dinner tables will have so many different flavors and tastes, savories and sweets, that six or eight wines would work well with such panoply. But for various reasons, the myth that’s perpetuated is that there is one wine, perhaps two, that work best with the traditional Thanksgiving dinners. Such columns usually go on to offer suggestions. The problem is obvious: What counts most at family gatherings are people. Sure, it’s better …
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