The most famous cacciucco is a coastal cucina povera fish soup from Livorno, made from the smallest and least valuable fish leftover on the fishing boat or unsold at fish counters. Cacciucco di ceci, however, is not a fish soup, but one defined by chickpeas and chard. If not for a salt-packed anchovy melted into the olive oil at the beginning, this would be a vegan dish. (If you do not have dietary restrictions, however, don’t skip the anchovy; it’s a powerful flavor-booster.) If you have time, soak half a pound of dried chickpeas overnight, cook them on low heat for a couple of hours until soft, then use them for this recipe. Don’t discard the cooking water, as it will add a more intense flavor and a creamy texture to the soup. But if you are in a hurry, don’t worry: You can use good-quality canned chickpeas instead, and …
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