There is something festive and celebratory about a pot of clams. To me, it is always a treat, evoking summer memories of blissful coastal feasts, languid lunches, and good times. It must be the fact that we need to eat them with our fingers, and mopping up the juices with bread is actually encouraged. Based on the classic Spanish dish almejas a la marinera—sailor-style clams—this is my favorite way to prepare the shellfish: steamed in a garlicky, saffron-infused white wine broth. The typical recipe uses flour to thicken the broth, but I prefer simply reducing it, to give the clams and resulting sauce a stronger flavor. You can make the broth ahead of time, then quickly cook the clams right before serving; it’s an excellent entertaining dish. Serves 4 4 pounds littleneck clams 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 cup finely diced Spanish onion 4 cloves garlic, finely diced 1 cup …