Once, the Green Line was something a no-go zone, never to be traversed. Stretching clear across the island, it divides Cyprus, and demarcates two different worlds. Reinforced by walls, fences, barbed wire, and guard towers, this demilitarized zone completely sealed off north from south for some three decades, until 2003. The Last Divided Capital And there’s no place where its presence remains so tangible as Nicosia. An ancient landlocked city that’s been continuously occupied for more than 4,000 years, Nicosia, named in Greek mythology for a siren, remains that last divided capital on earth. Arriving here in the middle of town, you’ll notice a couple of things right away. First, the United Nations peacekeepers, still here and very visible on the streets in their green fatigues and blue berets, enforcing a truce made in Geneva way back in 1974. The Green Line itself, a couple of blocks frozen in time, …