My pre-pandemic summers were always packed with travel—trips to Europe for work and play, and, most recently, a road trip across the American West. At the end of a sweltering day of activities, I’d routinely wind down with some social drinking. In recent years, though, I started to notice a shift. Beer lists had grown to include more and more low-alcohol options. Whether I was in Braunschweig, Germany, a suburb of Salt Lake City, or at home in Central Texas, I found myself no longer forced to choose between the likes of Stella Artois or Miller Lite if I wanted something that wouldn’t put me under the table. Now, I could expect to find a bevy of local or national options with an alcohol by volume, or ABV, in the 4 to 5 percent range—below the 5.9 percent average of a craft beer and well below the 7 percent India …