I hadn’t yet tucked into my first bite, the Malbec poured just a moment ago, the tables all around me full of happy diners chattering away over bites of steaming meat, when the son of the owners swung by my table. After a minute or two of chit-chat, he made me an offer I couldn’t refuse. “Do you want to see why the steak here at Don Julio is so good?” asked Pablo, already fishing for a key and rising from the table, assuring me that the ojo de bife I had just ordered would be kept fresh, and hot. Following him out into the street, we made our way about half a block down the cobblestones of the historic Palermo district, him opening the door on a building with darkened windows that I otherwise would have assumed to be someone’s private home. “Get ready,” he said swinging the door …
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