Decades ago, visiting wine country was limited to the few areas of the country with wineries. Outside California, that meant upstate New York and a tiny handful of hamlets scattered hither and mostly yon. Today, that number has expanded to just about every state, including Texas (i.e., Hill Country), Ohio (i.e., Lake Erie), Idaho (i.e., Snake River Valley), Michigan (i.e., Upper Peninsulas), and Colorado (i.e., Grand Junction). And even Florida. Imagine the lure of wine country: pristine air, unhurried lifestyles, casual wine tasting rooms, informative tour guides, and free sips of elixirs that brighten the day. Uh, not so fast. The air may smell of sulfur dust to treat the vines; lifestyles are often chaotic (too many tourists for one thing!); wine education often is geared toward a bit of self-serving “ours is better than theirs” promotion; and few tasting rooms offer free tastes. Not anymore. A lot has changed …