Think of pickles—what do you think of? Invariably, a sour crunch? Vats of bright green dill, maybe? The Japanese notion of a pickle often comes as a surprise. What the Japanese call tsukemono, or “pickled things,” may be tart and crunchy, yes, or they may be soft, deeply sweet, and imbued with umami. They may be quickly brined, for a subtle change in flavor and texture, or long-fermented, until entirely transformed. Tsukemono don’t necessarily rely on vinegar, as many other pickles do, but ingredients such as miso, salt, rice bran, or sake lees. They’re not limited to vegetables, either: Chrysanthemum petals, whole plums, and even meat and fish may become tsukemono; the arena is vast. Whatever the style of tsukemono, it is an essential, ever-present component of a Japanese meal, whether nibbled with a savory breakfast, lunch, or dinner. These pickles can act as a small salad, not needing any …