A farmer friend gave me a box of spinach the other week. It wasn’t long until the novelty wore off. By then I had added the dark green foliage to ramen, salad, omelets, sandwiches, and anywhere else I could think to insert those protein- and calcium-rich leaves. We finally killed the box with a large batch of saag paneer, in which I steamed and pureed the remaining spinach, along with some mustard greens, and cooked them with sauteed onions, garam masala, and browned chunks of creamy, nutty, salty homemade cheese. When the spinach ran out, I kept making this fluffy, lemony cheese. It’s easy to make and has a flavor that never gets old, and I feel like I’m only beginning to explore the possibilities of what to do with this cheese. Alas, this exploration has been restricted by a certain step in the process that I can’t stop eating. …