It was once a renowned redoubt, built almost five centuries ago to protect Spanish assets in the New World. Rising on a steep promontory next to the water, this registered historic site is still formidable. Walls and turrets overlook San Juan Bay, with the fort’s cannons still fixed and ready to fire on an enemy target that may just sail by, at any time, down below. Approaching it on foot from the old town, along a long, sloping path that cuts through a rolling patch of green, I could still feel its power.
Named for the Spanish King Philip II, Castillo San Felipe del Morro—always known locally as just El Morro—now welcomes some 2 million visitors every year. It’s a rare and special place where Old World designs are fixed on U.S. soil. The walls of this citadel have been attacked by many estimable forces, including the English, the Dutch, and the American navy—and they once repelled the renowned and infamous privateer, Sir Francis Drake. Now, they’re a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a National Park, and a perfect symbol for the complexity that makes Puerto Rico such a fascinating destination….