Asparagus is the vegetable that welcomes spring in all her glory. Though it’s available year-round, it’s really in the springtime that asparagus is at its best—fresh, tender, and sweet. Growing up in the Andalusian countryside in Spain, my sisters and I always looked forward to asparagus season. We would run through the fields to forage for wild asparagus, whose thin, spindly spears we then transformed into delicious omelets and quiches. Wild asparagus is slightly bitter, as is any wild-grown thing, but becomes tender and flavorful when cooked. Thick-as-thumbs white asparagus is grown in dark and fertile soil, buried in the ground to prevent the spears from producing chlorophyll. Especially treasured in European countries including Spain, Germany, France, and the Netherlands, these colossal gems are available only for a few weeks, so grab them if you see them. I adore white asparagus simply steamed and served with mounds of lemon mayonnaise. Green …