When a recipe calls for a cup of white wine, the cook who wrote that suggestion likely wasn’t referring to a $50 bottle of chardonnay. In basic terms, when cooking with wine, use one that’s clean, fresh, and young. Indeed, historically, the phrase “cooking wine” conjures up bad images, including wine with salt added, wine that’s gone bad but that some folks still cook with, and even wines of the wrong color. Decades ago, cooking wine often contained salt—a practice that goes back to when mansions had cooks. Owners wanted to make sure cooks didn’t take unauthorized swigs. But the cooking wine of the past also was so poor in quality that it wouldn’t add desirable flavors to a dish. The best wines to cook with are those you can drink. I often find that when cooking, I’m also sipping a glass. And usually, it’s the wine I splash in …