This seafood risotto is striking in appearance: pitch black thanks to squid ink, which also lends a distinctive briny flavor. The use of squid ink is common throughout the Mediterranean, from Venice to the coast of Tuscany to Spain, with its traditional arroz negro. In Italy, we commonly don’t associate fish with cheese—with a few significant exceptions—and it isn’t common to find cheese in a seafood risotto. But here, I’m breaking the rules: I’ve found that a generous knob of butter and a bit of grated Parmigiano Reggiano add richness, umami, and a delicate acidic note to the risotto, making it impossible to stop eating. I learned this trick from Samin Nosrat, whose recipe for clam spaghetti calls for butter and grated Parmigiano Reggiano. I replicated her recipe exactly and found it the best spaghetti with clam sauce I had ever tasted. Serves 4 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Dried …